I have never been a fan of museums. all those dusty cabinets full of ancient artefacts dug up by someone long dead have never held any fascination for me. as a child I was dragged around many and never really enjoyed the largely static experience.  Then, finding myself with two pre-schoolers to amuse on a rainy day, I was eventually tempted in to what was then the Royal Museum of Edinburgh. Up the steps we went, into the Victorian grand hall where the airy surroundings and the fish ponds were just the start of a captivating few hours. In the children's innocence - and their lack of knowledge about