Leave the city pace behind to explore these small, charming towns that are still free of the dreaded traffic blight, writes Sue Williams.
Imagine a world without traffic lights. No long waits on red and no anxiety about getting through on the green. No constant stopping and starting, and inching forward in queues. No jostling for position and random eruptions of road rage.
In 21st century Australia, it sounds like the ridiculous rantings of the terminally road-weary. But STOP! It is possible to take a breezy two-week roadtrip mapped through country NSW and Victoria, dropping in at several small towns which haven't yet been afflicted by traffic light blight.
This is a classic Australian roadtrip that can start either in Sydney or Melbourne, but winds in either direction to visit some truly fascinating spots, through Ned Kelly country, past the Alps, via a wild west town and then finishing at glorious beaches - and all without that modern scourge of red, amber and green. 
DAY ONE
SYDNEY TO BRAIDWOOD - 300 kilometres, 3\xC2&#189; hours' driving, without stopping.
Along the way, admire the coastline views of Bald Hill, and make a quick stop on the Sea Cliff Bridge between Coalcliff and Clifton. Over the years lovers have festooned the bridge with padlocks to declare their everlasting love for each other.
Drop in on Pebbly Beach in the Murramarang National Park, one of the great unspoiled spots of the southern coastline, where the forest meets the beach meets the ocean. Here, the sands are dotted regularly with dozens of resident kangaroos. Unpack a picnic and just wait for your visitors to approach. They may be shy at first but grow bolder with every step.
If you're patient, around sunset or sunrise, you might even be lucky enough to see the odd kangaroo duck into the water for a swim, or even, rumour has it, a quick bodysurf. Eighty kilometres on is our first small town without traffic lights: Braidwood in the NSW Southern Tablelands. Once a centre for the gold rush, which brought the bushrangers swarming along with it, Braidwood was recently heritage-listed, and with good reason.
Celebrating its 175th anniversary in 2014, its main street is lined with stunning Georgian architecture and has been the scene of classic Australian movies such as The Year My Voice Broke, Mick Jagger's Ned Kelly and On Our Selection.
It's a fabulously atmospheric town to explore on foot, with an historic route mapped out for visitors via the museum, wooden cottages of the 1850s and 1860s, grand old hotels, stone churches, the original courthouse and a fascinating graveyard. For breaks, the town that was once the southernmost mainland settlement in Australia has a surprisingly good selection of cafes, as well as an award-winning bakery.
DAY THREE
BRAIDWOOD TO MILAWA - 500 kilometres, 5\xC2&#189; hours' driving, without stopping.
Two hours into this drive, pull over for lunch in the riverside village of Jugiong, at the Long Track Pantry, a cafe and country food store packed full of hand-made chutneys, relishes and jams.
Then crossing into North East Victoria's wine and gourmet food region, they become the perfect accompaniment to the award-winning wares of the Milawa Cheese Company. Here, all cheeses are made by hand using traditional European methods, and without preservatives, with the tasting room the perfect opportunity to sample the full range. There are also plenty of wine tastings at several cellar doors.
Milawa's Wandiligong Maze is entertaining, especially for the kids, but the town also provides the perfect base to explore Ned Kelly country. At Benalla, Kelly's famed green sash is displayed, as well as Sidney Nolan's breathtaking tapestry depicting the siege of Glenrowan, Kelly's last stand. You can also visit the cells where he was taken.
In nearby Glenrowan, you can trace his footsteps with a self-guided walk, and the animated and computerised robot show recreating his final shoot-out isn't to be missed. It's bizarre, but fun.
A short drive away, at Greta, Kelly's descendants finally got their chance earlier this year (2013) to bury the outlaw's remains in the town cemetery, alongside his mum. It's a spot that's also well worth a visit, although it does take some searching for his final resting place.
DAY FIVE
MILAWA TO BEECHWORTH - 30 kilometres, 30 minutes' driving.
The Ned Kelly bonanza continues in Beechworth, which houses the courthouse where he, his mother and his supporters were tried and the jail where they were all held. Watch a re-enactment of the proceedings at the courthouse, and a documentary at the town hall. There's even a Ned Kelly meat pie on offer at the local bakery - steak topped with bacon, cheese and an egg.
DAY SIX
BEECHWORTH TO EDEN VIA OMEO - 500 kilometres, 6\xC2&#189; hours' driving, without stops.
This is a big driving day, but the spectacular Victorian high country and Australian Alps scenery helps pass the time. Stop to admire the scenery at the Kosciusko Lookout on the Great Alpine Way. Try the remote little town of Omeo for lunch, the scene of the local western movie Red Hill.
Omeo doesn't disappoint; it's hard not to imagine a gunfight down the old main street, with Ryan Kwanten and Steve Bisley warring between themselves over the best way to catch villains.
Crossing back into NSW, Eden is a picture-perfect spot over Twofold Bay, once the home of a whaling station. Back then, legend has it that a killer whale named Old Tom used to lure baleen whales over to the hunters for a reward of the doomed whales' lips. The Eden Killer Whale Museum tells his story, and has his preserved skeleton among its prized exhibits. Suggest staying three nights here at the Seahorse Inn.
A short drive south is Boydtown, the home of pioneer Ben Boyd, who built it intending it to be the capital of Australia. The Ben Boyd National Park has nature trails, and Boyd's Tower is a landmark of the failed empire of a truly extraordinary man.
DAY NINE
EDEN TO BERMAGUI - 100 kilometres, 1\xC2&#189; hours' driving, without stops.
Drive along the coastal road up to the Sapphire Coast town of Bermagui, another pretty spot, best known for its fabulous deep sea fishing. The beautiful beaches here are great for swimming. Bird-watching is the big draw of nearby Wallaga Lake. Suggest staying three nights here at Bellbird Cottage B & B.
While here, take a day drip up to Narooma and catch a boat out to Montague Island, a nature reserve with a startling white solar-powered lighthouse against dark jagged rocks that look as if they're moving ... until you realise they're actually Australian and New Zealand fur seals jumping off and back on. The island's also a stop-off for about 8000 breeding pairs of penguin every year on their migratory path.
A little further north, privately owned Mogo Zoo is also worth visiting. With a mission to preserve the lives of endangered animals, it's home to more than 40 rare and exotic species and every day there's a schedule for visitors to watch them being fed.
DAY 12
BERMAGUI TO SYDNEY - 400 kilometres, five hours' driving, without stops.
This is another long drive, but there are plenty of places along the way to break the journey if you're not in a rush. Batemans Bay is always great for fish and chips.
Ulladulla is a pretty town to visit, and at Kiama make sure you see the blowhole. North of Wollongong, stop on the escarpment to see the view, before continuing back to Sydney - refreshed and restored for all those blasted traffic lights.
Starting in Melbourne
If starting this road trip from Melbourne, head out on the Hume Highway (M31), pass through Glenrowan, then turn east towards Milawa - your first stop. After that, head for Beechworth, then Omeo, Eden and Bermagui. After that, head north to Braidwood then go via Canberra to rejoin the Hume Highway at Yass to return to Melbourne.
TRIP NOTES
STAYING THERE
Braidwood - Cedar Lodge Motel, 54 Duncan Street; phone (02) 4842 2027. Milawa - Milawa Motel, 1615 Snow Road; see milawamotel.com.au; phone (03) 5727 3326. Beechworth - Golden Heritage Motor Inn & Cottages, 51 Sydney Road; see goldenheritage.com.au; phone (03) 5728 1404. Eden - The Seahorse Inn, Boydtown Park Road; phone (02) 6496 1361; see seahorseinn.com.au. Bermagui - Bellbird Cottage B&B, 88 Nutleys Creek Road; see bellbirdcottage-bnb.com; phone (02) 6493 5274.
DINING THERE
Don't miss Le Tres Bon restaurant at Bungendore run by French chef Christophe Gregoire with a special local black-truffle menu during the harvest season. Phone 02 6238 0662; see letresbon.com.au.
In Milawa, dine at the Milawa Gourmet Hotel. Its bistro specialises in regional gourmet fare. Meals are served by a fire or in the garden if warm. See milawagourmethotel.com.au; phone (03) 57273208.
Sue Williams travelled at her own expense.
MORE INFORMATION:
destinationnsw.com.au
visitvictoria.com