COULD we finally have the definition of Australian food?
The variety of nationalities and food styles means the answer is never going to be simple, but a new cookbook released today makes a valiant effort.
The Great Australian Cookbook co-editors and food writers Helen Greenwood and Melissa Leong spent six months on the road with a production crew, travelling to every state, including some regional zones, to gather "an affectionate snapshot" of Aussie food through the eyes of our best known foodistas and foodfellas.
The authors have consulted some of the nation's top food personalities - including South Australia's Jock Zonfrillo and Maggie Beer - who, rather than narrow it down, show us the breadth and richly flavoured depth of the cuisine we enjoy. 
It includes a feast of fusions from simple sponge cake to Aussie ingredients tossed in a wok, slow-cooked curries and meaty roasts, and fish - or squid - and chips on the beach.
"We began, over many cups of tea and biscuits, by writing out the names of chefs, cooks, bakers and food heroes we admired," Greenwood and Leong say.
Featured in the book are Nikki and Doug Govan of craggy coastal SA restaurant Star of Greece, and their beach inspired recipes for salt and pepper squid and ale-battered whiting.
"These are dishes we love to eat," said Ms Govan, who is a "huge fan" of the locally caught squid.
She said having fish and chips on the beach was "so Aussie and romantic". "That's how Doug wooed me, with a picnic on Port Willunga Beach," she said. The Great Australian Cookbook is priced at $49.95.
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SALT & PEPPER SQUID WITH LEMON & GARLIC MAYO SERVINGS: 5 INGREDIENTS LEMON AND GARLIC MAYO â-  2 whole eggs â-  2 egg yolks â-  1 tsp Dijon mustard â-  1â„2 tsp minced garlic â-  400ml olive oil â-  Juice of 1 lemon SQUID â-  Oil for deep-frying â-  2 whole fresh squid â-  1 bottle soda water â-  250g coarse rice flour
METHOD â-  Make the lemon and garlic mayo by blending eggs, yolks, mustard and garlic in an electric mixer until creamy and light. Slowly and steadily beat in olive oil. Once combined, mix in lemon juice and set aside.
Heat oil in a deep-fryer to 180C.
Clean the squid by cutting the tentacles off the body; reserve the tentacles. Pull the head, guts and feather out of the squid tube in one motion, and discard. Clean the squid tube by scraping the membrane away from the flesh, keeping the wings on the body. Slice the tube into rings about 1cm thick and add to the tentacles.
Wash squid with soda water, then drain in a colander. Once drained, toss squid in rice flour, shake off extra flour and deep-fry for about 30 to 40 seconds. Toss squid with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, and serve with the lemon and garlic mayo.
ALE-BATTERED KING GEORGE WHITING WITH HAND-CUT CHIPS SERVINGS: 4 INGREDIENTS FISH â-  Oil for deep-frying â-  8 fillets King George whiting (or any delicate white-fleshed fish) â-  225g self-raising flour â-  1 bottle sparkling ale (we use Coopers) â-  Plain flour to coat HAND-CUT CHIPS â-  Oil for deep-frying â-  8 medium DÃ©sirÃ©e potatoes
METHOD Heat oil to 180C in a deep-fryer.
Slice potatoes lengthways into eighths. Plunge them, all at once, into the hot oil in the deep-fryer and immediately turn the temperature down to 120C. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes or until chips are cooked but still firm. Spread out on a large tray and cool in the fridge.
Turn deep-fryer back up to 180C.
Cut the fins off and pin-bone the whiting fillets.
To make the batter, slowly whisk the flour into the ale, â€ƒ whisking until you have a smooth batter.
When ready to cook, toss the fillets a few at a time in enough plain flour to coat. Dip the fillets into the batter and carefully lower them into the hot oil. The fish will float and needs to be turned over once the bottom side is a nice light golden colour (this should take about 1 minute). Continue to fry until evenly coloured on that side, then remove fish and drain on a paper towel.Fry chilled chips at 180C until golden and crisp. Season with salt and serve with the fish.