THE PLACE
Cradle Mountain Lodge, Tasmania
THE LOCATION
A mossy, misty hiker's paradise, Cradle Mountain is the wild heart of the Tassie wilderness just two hours' drive from Launceston. There is a remoteness to the landscape here with its rugged mountain streams and twisted, lichen-covered trees and there are plenty of walks in and around the Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair National Park. This is the step-off point for the hardcore six-day Overland Track, but most visitors tend to take a shorter walk around the moon-like landscape surrounding the shard-covered Cradle Mountain itself.
THE SPACE 
The communal areas scream "lodge" with expansive leather lounges, book shelves, exposed wooden beams and mountain murals in the bar. You feel like you are an extra in Twin Peaks but there is also a folksy feel to the main lodge, the walls filled with historical photos or covered roof to floor in slate. Grab a spot next to the huge open fireplaces that are on for much of the year up here and pretend you are an early settler, but with a few more mod cons. Originally opened in 1972 as the Pencil Pine Lodge, it was taken over by Peppers in 2012.
THE ROOM
My room is a Pencil Pine Cabin with a balcony, a minimal but modern abode with a gas "log fire" twinkling away in the corner. It has all you need from a CD player (though, like most hotels, new iPhone users no longer fit the connection) to plunger coffee facilities and a large window on to the bush. Soft furnishings reflect the greens of the forest while the dark wood adds to the outdoor feel. The bathroom has a corner spa as well as a strong shower, a bonus for returning hikers.
THE FOOD
Breakfast in the Highland Restaurant is a buffet with all the usual trimmings while the dinner menu changes regularly, but likes to celebrate the local Tassie produce. You could find Macquarie Harbour Atlantic salmon or wild Tasmanian rabbit and lima bean stew. The Tavern Bar & Bistro is a top spot for lunch, order a Cradle Burger, a lodge-made beef patty with cheese, bacon, lettuce, relish and aioli and sit at the wooden benches with a view of the surrounds.
STEPPING OUT
Just wandering up to the lodge for dinner wallabies skitter away from my front door when I emerge and, with just a torch to light my way, I almost trip over a wombat grazing heedlessly on the path to the main lodge. A brush-tailed possum plays doorman to the main lodge.
Walks spread out in every direction from the lodge and stretch for minutes, or days. For a morning constitutional head down past the Cradle Mountain Lodge shop and take a short stroll to Pencil Pine Falls, a 10-minute round trip.
THE VERDICT
There is a reason that Cradle Mountain Lodge was the only Australian property featured on this year's Lonely Planet "Extraordinary Places to Stay" list. It has ancient forests, mod cons like the Waldheim Alpine Spa and a retro hunting lodge vibe. The food draws on the famous local produce and there are daily activities like wine and cheese tasting and spotlight night walks.
ESSENTIALS
4038 Cradle Mountain Road, Cradle Mountain, Tasmania. Rooms start from $199 a night. Phone 03 6492 2103, see www.peppers.com.au
Paul Chai was a guest of Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge.
See also: Australia's eight best places for a two-day break
See also: Six of the best Tasmania day hikes